Toronto Life, May 1992

Mye means dancing in Japanese, and that is exactly what the hands of owner-sushi chef, Motoaki Aoki, do when preparing the finest examples of his considerable art.

Decor of this converted house (once home to an accounting firm) announced a real Tokyo experience -white walls, golden wood and tasteful hangings combine with soft music and courteous service. The true glory is oceanic: sculpted sashimi presentations of finesse, and fresher or better prepared seafood has rarely been tasted from the sushi block ($2 and up): nearly transparent sweet shrimp tasting like honey, melting tuna, knifed until only the best remains; artfully cut salmon on gleaming orange-white stripe; and all this on fine rice (grown in California from Japanese seeds, and nicely vinegared). Few pickles and salads, otherwise appetizers ($3.50-$18) ring the changes: squid noodle salad is a deft medley of tastes, with fresh mixing with quail egg yolk, zestful wasabe mustard, soy and shopped mintlike shiso leaf; exceptionally crisp deep fried shrimp- up to 10 of the salty, steaming, oil-less creatures with heads on (one is encouraged to eat these as well) of succulent crunch. Vegetable tempura of light, clean batter; miso soup has a much richer broth than usual, and is not overabundant with green onions. One tatami room for 12 (nonsmoking). $80-$90. 143 Church St., Oakville (849-8989) ***1/2