All dressed up, it's still seafood heaven

Calling all sushi lovers: It's not easy being a sushi lover in Toronto. They serve us fake crab, aging tuna and cooked shrimp. At last we have a sushi bar that approaches West Coast standards. Mye Japanese Restaurant at 143 Church St. in Oakville (phone 849-8989) sells the freshest sushi I have eaten east of the Rockies. Not only is the fish particularly fresh, but the sushi master at Mye uses his knife like a sculptor's tool. The other hacks hereabouts just cut the seafood up and slap it on rice. This man slices the salmon so that its white fat veins create a design. He cuts the geoduck (giant B.C. clam) so that it fans out like a skirt. The eye eats first.

-Joanne Kates, The Globe and Mail